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A new set on a pink table · A cake-shaped box and palettes topped with sculpted ornaments. A styled image the brand posted on its official site. ©Flower Knows
A new set on a pink tableA cake-shaped box and palettes topped with sculpted ornaments. A styled image the brand posted on its official site. ©Flower Knows
Daily retail

A makeup brand that makes 85% of sales online opened its first store in ten years, by reservation only (Shanghai · Beauty Retail)

2026.10.03

Chinese color cosmetics brand Flower Knows opened its first standalone store on October 1 at 520 Huaihai Middle Road in Shanghai. Last year it sold about KRW 337 billion of product without a single store of its own. Proya, which became its majority owner this year, paid 2.5 times the price per share it had paid a year earlier.

1.Flower Knows (花知晓) opened the doors of its first standalone store on October 1 at 520 Huaihai Middle Road, Shanghai. Until the 8th it runs as a trial, open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. to visitors with timed reservations only, and regular trading is reported to start on the 9th. The store is called the Global Brand Flagship. It is run jointly with WOW BEAUTY, a cosmetics multi-brand retailer the company has worked with for eight years.
2.The company was founded in Hangzhou in 2016 by two men born in the 1990s, Yang Zifeng and Zhou Tiancheng, with RMB 1 million. Both were cosplay enthusiasts, and in the first three months they sold RMB 2 million online. For the next ten years, its only offline presence was other people's shelves. Its products now sit in more than 2,000 cosmetics multi-brand stores across China, but this is the first store that carries its own name.
3.People gathered before the doors opened. When the construction hoarding went up in mid-September, a whole roadside building turned into a pink castle. Every arched window got painted sky-blue curtains, gold ornaments crowned the top, and photos of it spread across Xiaohongshu. Why is the number 520 welcome? Read aloud in Chinese it sounds like "I love you," which is why couples celebrate May 20.
The hoarding at 520 Huaihai Middle Road · The building under construction is wrapped in hoarding painted like a pink castle. Photo from mid-September. ©上观新闻 · 新浪新闻
The hoarding at 520 Huaihai Middle RoadThe building under construction is wrapped in hoarding painted like a pink castle. Photo from mid-September. ©上观新闻 · 新浪新闻
A customer gathering · A meetup photo the brand posted on its official site. Even before it had a store, customers gathered like this on their own. ©Flower Knows
A customer gatheringA meetup photo the brand posted on its official site. Even before it had a store, customers gathered like this on their own. ©Flower Knows
4.Shoppers who choose this brand look at the lid before the color. Angels, roses and swans stand out in relief on palette lids, and lace patterns are pressed into the powder itself, so a fingertip wipes away the pattern first. By June the company held 132 design patents. It makes things people keep after the makeup is gone: vanity-drawer boxes, hand mirrors, cake-shaped cases.
A palette with pressed patterns · Vines and flowers rise even from the pressed powder. ©Flower Knows
A palette with pressed patternsVines and flowers rise even from the pressed powder. ©Flower Knows
Three friends with hand mirrors · What remains after the makeup is used up is the case. Photo from the brand's official site. ©Flower Knows
Three friends with hand mirrorsWhat remains after the makeup is used up is the case. Photo from the brand's official site. ©Flower Knows
5.During the trial period one reservation code admits the holder plus one friend. Miss your slot and that day's booking is void, and a phone screenshot will not get you in. The in-store exclusive is a build-your-own palette, where shoppers fill an empty case with the colors they pick. Single items are 10% off, and three or more are 20% off. Floor area and number of floors have not been disclosed.
Acrylic display · Products are shown in their boxes so the case ornaments come first. ©搜狐
Acrylic displayProducts are shown in their boxes so the case ornaments come first. ©搜狐
6.What shoppers buy is makeup and a collectible at once. With an average item price of RMB 60 to 70 (about KRW 13,000), the first purchase is easy, and 40% of buyers come back. The case shape changes with every series, so the same person buys again when a new one lands. The catch is that this ornament barely shows on a screen. To feel the pattern under a fingertip, you have to hold the real thing.
7.Until now, the real thing lived on someone else's shelf. One bay in a multi-brand store holds dozens of other brands. There, a castle-shaped box and a swan lid become one row on a shelf a little over a meter wide. Across 2,000 stores, there was not one place where shoppers could see the whole scene the brand had built.
A shelf inside a multi-brand store · Until now, this kind of shelf was where shoppers met the brand offline. ©搜狐
A shelf inside a multi-brand storeUntil now, this kind of shelf was where shoppers met the brand offline. ©搜狐
8.Overseas buyers paid more first. The signature Strawberry Cupid palette lists at RMB 149 (about KRW 29,000) in China and $40 on the US official store, about 1.9 times the Chinese price. Overseas sales in 2025 were RMB 200 million, 11.6% of the total. The brand first took root in Japanese drugstores, and since 2024 the US has overtaken Japan as its largest overseas market. In America it now reaches Ulta Beauty and Urban Outfitters stores.
A winter series staged in snow · Drawer, perfume-bottle and hand-mirror cases arranged into one scene. ©Flower Knows
A winter series staged in snowDrawer, perfume-bottle and hand-mirror cases arranged into one scene. ©Flower Knows
9.2025 revenue was RMB 1.726 billion (about KRW 337 billion), with net profit of RMB 280 million, a net margin above 16%. Revenue grew more than 50% a year for three straight years from 2023, and in the first quarter of this year the company booked RMB 675 million in revenue and RMB 155 million in net profit. Online sales came to RMB 1.474 billion, or 85.4%. Most of that was sold directly through its own web store and official stores on platforms.
10.The offline share was RMB 252 million. Spread across more than 2,000 multi-brand stores, each sold at most RMB 126,000 a year, a little over RMB 10,000 (about KRW 2 million) a month. Each store was small, but the brand paid neither the rent nor the staff. A standalone store flips that math. Rent, wages and fit-out costs all land on the brand.
11.JLL put the average ground-floor rent in Shanghai's core retail districts in the fourth quarter of last year at RMB 41.8 per square meter per day. Renting just 100㎡ on the ground floor costs RMB 1.52 million a year (about KRW 300 million), as much as twelve multi-brand stores sell in a year. Converted into online sales, the same money is nine hours' worth. This is not a store meant to pay for itself. Count the hoarding photos that spread before opening, and it is closer to advertising spend.
1층 100㎡의 1년 임대료는 편집숍 열두 곳의 1년 판매액 단위 만 위안 · 2025년 실적과 상권 평균 임대료로 계산한 추정 편집숍 한 곳 1년 12.6 1층 100㎡ 1년 임대료 152.6 온라인 하루 매출 403.8 ※ 편집숍 한 곳은 오프라인 매출 2억 5,200만 위안을 2,000곳으로 나눈 상한값. ※ 임대료는 1㎡당 하루 41.8위안 × 100㎡ × 365일. 매장의 실제 면적과 임대 조건은 공개되지 않았다.
Three amounts comparedSources: Flower Knows 2025 results (Proya filings), JLL (average ground-floor rent in Shanghai core retail districts, Q4 2025)
12.The owner who will pay for that advertising changed this year. Chinese cosmetics company Proya (珀莱雅) bought a 38.45% stake for RMB 428 million in 2025, and in May this year bought another 12.55% from founder Yang Zifeng for RMB 351 million, taking control with 51%. Divide each deal by its stake and the company's value jumps from RMB 1.11 billion to RMB 2.8 billion. The second figure is ten times last year's net profit. Proya booked RMB 445 million of its first-half net profit of RMB 1.168 billion as investment income related to the company.
1년이 안 돼 지분값이 2.5배로 거래 금액을 지분율로 나눈 회사 가치(억 위안) 2025년 38.45% 11.1 4.28억 위안 지급 2026년 12.55% 28.0 3.51억 위안 지급 ※ 첫 거래는 투자 유치 형식, 두 번째는 창업자 보유 지분 매입이라 조건이 같지 않다. 단순 나눗셈이다.
Company value implied by the dealsSources: Proya filings · Inside Retail Asia · law.asia
13.After the deal, Proya general manager Hou Yameng became chairman of the company, and Yang Zifeng stepped back to manager and director. Product development, however, stays with the founders. Trade press noted that what Proya bought was less the brand name than its overseas distribution and its ability to operate in English. Sales of Proya's own core skincare line fell 10% last year. Rather than grow the next phase in-house, it bought it.
14.In China, the precedent for online-born beauty brands expanding stores is poor. A few years ago multi-brand cosmetics stores sprang up everywhere, and some, like WOW COLOUR, closed nearly half their stores despite raising more than $100 million. Flower Knows did not open alone. It shares store operations with a multi-brand retailer and caps visitor numbers with reservation slots. What it chose was not a store count but a line in front of one door.
Customers around a dining table · A photo the brand posted on its official site. Taking photos with the cases in hand is how people use this brand. ©Flower Knows
Customers around a dining tableA photo the brand posted on its official site. Taking photos with the cases in hand is how people use this brand. ©Flower Knows
Huaihai Middle Road and Chongqing Middle Road intersection · The North-South Elevated Road runs above Chongqing Middle Road. Huaihai Middle Road is one of Shanghai's oldest shopping streets. ©そらみみ · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
Huaihai Middle Road and Chongqing Middle Road intersectionThe North-South Elevated Road runs above Chongqing Middle Road. Huaihai Middle Road is one of Shanghai's oldest shopping streets. ©そらみみ · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Wikimedia Commons
15.A brand that sells KRW 337 billion a year without a store of its own opened its first one on Huaihai Middle Road after ten years, and the rent on just 100㎡ of that ground floor equals what twelve multi-brand stores sell in a year (estimate). In Korea, an online-grown color cosmetics brand opening the same kind of store runs into Olive Young first. Offline cosmetics sales are concentrated on that one chain's shelves, so the moment a standalone store gets exclusives or deeper discounts, listing terms have to be renegotiated.
Daily Retail #055 · 2026.10.03
Sources: 北京商报 (花知晓全球品牌旗舰店落地上海,10月起试运营 · Sep 20, 2026 · trial opening Oct 1-8, reservations, build-your-own palette), 搜狐 (花知晓将在上海开出全球首家旗舰店 · Sep 2026 · 2025 revenue and net profit, online 85.38%, offline 14.62%, 2,000 multi-brand stores, overseas channels), 腾讯新闻 (珀莱雅7.79亿买下的"少女心" · Sep 17, 2026 · two stake purchases, Q1 2026 results, overseas revenue RMB 200 million, eight-year WOW BEAUTY relationship, Proya H1 results), 腾讯新闻 ("十岁"花知晓,实现关键一跃? · Sep 11, 2026 · seed capital, first three months of sales, 132 design patents, three years of 50% growth), 上观新闻 · 新浪新闻 (淮海路这个巨型围挡也太粉嫩了吧 · Sep 19, 2026 · hoarding), 什么值得买 (花知晓"自组盘" · trial reservation rules, discounts, regular opening on the 9th), 搜狐 (国货彩妆花知晓,卖得比香奈儿还贵 · Strawberry Cupid palette RMB 149, US $40, 40% repurchase rate, average item price), Jing Daily (Flower Knows opens 1st flagship in Shanghai · Sep 2026), Inside Retail Asia (How Proya's Flower Knows deal is a bet on Chinese beauty done differently · May 29, 2026 · founders, US market, Proya results), law.asia (Proya Hainan acquires Flower Knows stake · management changes), 知乎 (WOW COLOUR funding and store cuts), JLL (average ground-floor rent in Shanghai core retail districts, Q4 2025), Flower Knows official site (product photos).
Reports differ on the timing of the first stake purchase (August or September 2025); the second was announced in May and reportedly completed in July. Company value is a simple division of deal size by stake. Per-store sales at multi-brand retailers and the rent on 100㎡ of ground floor are estimates from public figures; the store's actual area, floors, lease terms and revenue split with WOW BEAUTY have not been disclosed. Exchange rate: RMB 1 = about KRW 195.